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Archive for September, 2009

Nori Rolls

Sunday, September 27th, 2009

Nori Roll Split

Remnants of Super Typhoon Choi-Wan still standing and delivering today.  The past few days saw lefts coming in that were reminiscent of something found on the Bukit.  The rights weren’t as long as the lefts, but were generally pretty steep and hollow.  Saw more than a few spit today and had quite the challenge keeping my quad from blazing out into the shoulder with all the speed from the drop.

Nori Rolla

The lefts allowed you to draw out your turns a bit more, whereas the rights required a more pivotal approach if you wanted to take advantage of the best part of the wave.

Sushi

On the right ones you could get a nice long bottom turn into racing wall and then cover up like this lucky guy above.

Nori Nice

The past few days of warm sunny beach weather, no wind, and overhead swell further reinforces why California is one of the best places to be in September.  Choi-Wan just put a few extra exclamation points on the end for us.

Super Typhoon Choi-wan

Saturday, September 26th, 2009

Super Typhoon Choi-wan

Who would have thought that I’d be surfing the remnants of Super Typhoon Choi-Wan here in SF 14 days after it started as a Tropical Depression somewhere near Guam.

What goes around comes around.

Nori Rolls as I affectionately refer to it, was ‘going orf’ today.  Long period ground swell with some long drops and nicely shaped lines.  Fun Fun and Fun.

Will try to get some shots tomorrow before this next NW fills in.

Early Pulses

Tuesday, September 22nd, 2009

KC

So last week we got a bit of winter sized juice, but with a bit of summer dribble mixed in.  You can see from the photos that although there were a few gems, the majority were a bit funky.  Up top is a lonely wave at one of the more well known spots in SF.

Big Right

Here is a big right hander rifling its way along tempting someone to paddle out and give it something to play with.

Yeaha

and it didn’t take long before someone did.  Here is a nice looking wall, the kind you can just lean into real hard and go for broke.

Smoove Move

Across the channel, or should I say rip, there was a hunky left that was entertaining for the tourists and the flock of pelicans kicking out of the wave here.

Soaring

This lone bodyboarder that I came across was either admiring the rippable little left or figuring out how to navigate the shore dump.  I think he was contemplating a second go out, and perhaps leaning towards a hot cup of coffee and a breakfast burrito.

Go Out

These were all shot on the same morning and if I remember correctly the wind came up around noon and pretty much ended any hopes of a repeat sesh.

Girth

I imagine this fisherman likes it that way.

Early Pulse

Monday, September 21st, 2009

Indian Summer

My favorite time of year is when the fog starts to lift, the sun comes out, and the winds start to shift and clean up the normal summer dribble.  Nothing sweeter than warm sand between the toes and a view like the one above as you come over the dunes and get your first glimpses of the lineup on a late summer day.

Real Local

The past few weeks have been pretty good as we’ve had everything from fun longboard days to well overhead dumpers acting as a solid warm up for the season to come.  Even the real locals are stoked.

Locals

Lots of life in the water and plenty to make you feel alive.  A few weeks back we had a solid run of super shallow low tide thumpers that were just a blast.  Had to get in early and just shoot the curl as they used to say…kicking out before the inevitable beating chased you down.

Hollow

The week after; I guess the sandbars took a beating and the waves started to line up really nicely.  You could get tucked in nice and tight on a few of these…and I couldn’t decide which were more fun, the lefts

Sweet as...

or the rights.

Tucked

No matter which way you went, there was fun for all.

Beach Day