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Foam Creation

Posted July 26th, 2010 by Thelo
Categories: Surf

Working on a new board.  Want to make something that’ll make me smile every time I pull it off the rack.

Thanks Ando and Friends.

Plastiki

Posted July 26th, 2010 by Thelo
Categories: Surf

The Plastiki Reaches Sydney by The Plastiki.

The boat made of recycled plastic bottles as a way to bring attention to the environmental impact of plastic waste has reached Sydney Harbor, 4 months after having left San Francisco.

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Making the most of flat spells…Santa Cruz Style.

Posted July 23rd, 2010 by Thelo
Categories: Skate, Surf

‘It’s blowin’ up…right now!’

Progress for Ocean Policies/Awareness

Posted July 21st, 2010 by Thelo
Categories: Environment

The disaster in the gulf, if nothing else, has shown how fragile our ocean ecosystems really are, how the repercussions can be felt by all that are dependent among its resources, and the importance of measures to protect it.  Nice to see that there is heightened awareness and steps being taken in the right direction.  Hope this momentum continues in Washington and beyond.

Typhoon Daze!

Posted July 20th, 2010 by Thelo
Categories: Surf

Well its that time of year again for our folks in sunny Taiwan.  The water heats up and you start to see those little flare ups here and there that intensify as the season goes on. The typical season lasts from about July-October but can extend out to as early as April and as late as November in some cases.

When you ask the locals about the best months for surf you’ll see their eyes light up as they say Jo Yue, or September for us haoles.  When the waves start to come in, the long flat spells between the steady winter winds ‘long feng san’ and that first typhoon are easily forgotten.

Last week the boyz got a little taste of what they’ve been waiting for after a slow start to the season.  Reports of waves all up and down the best coast came in.  With not the biggest of waves, but certainly a nice warm up.

I believe last week was just a Tropical Storm headed for Hainan.  This guy has a front row seat for the action about to unfold.

This shot below is of one of my personal favorite waves.  It’s a fickle one that only breaks this time of year, but it offers a lot of variety when it does and can be punchy, which is always fun.  Check out the grab rail technique of that lucky one…he’s got it all to himself and about to get  little head dip.

The nice thing about Typhoon season in Taiwan is that it really opens up the scope of possibilities.  All sorts of nooks and crannies light up and it really tends to thin out the crowds considerably.

Best case scenario is when the storms just skirt the island and hang out or cruise by really slowly.  That is when you get some seriously good surf.  Here is Tha Meystro pulling in on one of the remnants of last week’s swell.

July is when the action starts to heat up and the frequency of storms really starts to pick up pace and so he and the rest of the boyz won’t have to wait too long for the next little bit of action.  As I write this, Tropical storm Chanthu is sitting in the South China Sea kicking up another round of goodness.

Tropical Cyclone Track at 05:00 HKT 21 July 2010

They are just getting up on that side of the world and I bet someone is pulling in right….NOW!  Taiwan Pi Jo all around cause Typhoon Daze are back.

All Photos Courtesy of the Gazza!!

Sedor does it again with Mozzie’s

Posted July 16th, 2010 by Thelo
Categories: Surf

Dreamy!!

Check our more Sedor’s vids at Taiwan Bootleg TV and The Board Wok or the Bluebird Video Page

Heard the water is warming up in NYC

Posted July 15th, 2010 by Thelo
Categories: Surf

Kind of missing it…even though most of the time it is just like this teaser.

So much goodness

Posted July 15th, 2010 by Thelo
Categories: Surf

Grey Whale Sessions – Trailer from Tyler Manson on Vimeo.

Good surf…and the sun was even out!

Posted July 14th, 2010 by Thelo
Categories: Surf

One of my favorite views as I run over the dunes.  As I finished up shooting some of these a guy came running over the dunes with a mini gun under his arm and gave out a little squeal when he got his first glimpses.  I had to chuckle as I was a couple hours ahead of him and feeling pretty darn satiated.

I was catching mostly lefts, but I did have a couple cover ups on the rights as they made their way into the dumpy shorebreak.

Enjoy the shots and I’m looking forward to catching more of the same today.

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Somewhere off the California Coast Part 3

Posted July 12th, 2010 by Thelo
Categories: Surf

Well it was that time of year again and off we went somewhere off the California coast.  Happened to time it with a building south and west swell and it was beautiful.

When we arrived it was head high on the sets, the next day, Independence day, it was a few feet overhead and we got two three hour sessions, and the day after it was double overhead with exposed reef at low tide.  The picture above isn’t even where we surfed but it was goin off nearly everywhere.  It was hard not to draw comparisons to Indo.

The first day I surfed my first solid wood single fin shape, second day I got a bit more serious and took out my 6′2″ Aloha thruster that I picked up for $20 from a Japanese dude heading back to Japan after a winter here in SF.  The second session on the 4th of July and the last day I rode my Kauai shaped Topper single fin given to me by a good friend who left it with me before he moved off to Costa Rica.  I rode it with Greenough skeg which was more appropriate than I had realized at the time.  I felt like I was channeling some 70’s legend on that thing…stayed up high and gathered a bunch of speed and then would hold a swooping carve into the flats and then do it all over again.

Independence day was the best, the sun was out, slight offshores and we even got it all to ourselves for a little bit.  I was so stoked.  Sure didn’t feel like California.

On the last day, we pulled up to the spot and saw about 4 other guys in the water catching some fun ones.  We had seen and felt some of the biggest swells of the three days that night and morning as we made our way from the anchorage so we were expecting it to be much bigger.  We jumped in the water thinking that maybe the swell direction was off or something.  We were able to catch a few waves before the mother of all sets rolled in.  I found myself scratching for the horizon and just barely making it under a three or four wave set from hell.  After that set, everyone cleared the line-up and pulled up anchor.  It was pretty classic!

It was a great way to end the trip and I cannot wait until next year!!