Not Much Swell this Week Posted August 19th, 2009 by Gazza
Taiwan has been flat ever since Typhoon Morakot left the island. Well, why we wait, here's is an oldy of Typhoon generated waves about three years ago. Hell Yeah... Dante, Clayton...
Incredible weekend of surf for hundreds of miles of coastline. Starting on Friday you could see the long tapered lines starting to fill in at OB. Dumpy A-frames with a sprinkle of winter juice and it just got better from there.
Wasn’t going to let another morning sesh pass me up…even though I snoozed it a couple times. My friend lent me his GoPro Hero and I had batteries, a new SD card and sort of figured out the basics of how to use it and its different settings. At least so I thought. It was freezing cold, but threw on my suit and ran out to the beach with sleepies in my eyes. I didn’t really know what it would be like since the swell was forecast for a slight drop, but the previous day wasn’t showing the 13 ft or so they had forecasted and so It could have come in late or not at all. Turns out it was a bit bigger than the previous morning with a good high tide…almost 7 ft. (Read More...)
It’s been fun with all this wet cold weather. Starting to think of adventures in the snow as the Mountains have been getting a bit. I was considering the morning sesh as last night it was dead calm, but that didn’t last too long. When I awoke it was pretty chilly out. Would have been exhilarating on the first couple duck dives.Check out these brave souls from Michigan. Hope they have that new heated Rip Curl suit.
I’ve been in some pretty cold water, but nothing where I actually had ice on me like these guys.
So I’ve had Woodshed Films on my mind recently as they have been promoting their new film, as you know. Last night got The Seedling in from NetFlix and watched it over a pint of 2 degrees below. Such a beautiful film that it got me all jazzed to ride the ole 9′6″ that I now fondly refer to as my ‘amplifier’.
It’ll take any session and turn it into a blast. Luckily for me this morning the surf has been tiny the past few days after the epic weekend of sun and surf. By lucky, I mean that it fit into my mind state after watching the film and dreaming about hanging ten. I woke up and ran out in the fog and cold over the dunes to find one other surfer out. The waves were tiny….like knee high on the sets, but with the same perfect shape its held all week. Little barrels fit for an action figure were rifling down the sand bars. (Read More)
One Track Mind Premieres!
Nov 19, 2008
November 19-23 - Santandar - Spain
More Info Coming Soon
November 20- Toms Shoes Headquarters - Santa Monica, CA
When: 7:30pm
Where: 3025 Olympic Blvd. Santa Monica CA 90404
Admission: FREE!
More Info: Drinks and live music from Pawnshop Kings and Kai Brown
November 22 - Ojai, CA
When: 4:30pm
Where: Ojai Theatre, 145 E. Ojai Ave., Ojai, CA
Admission: FREE!
It was inevitable that Taiwan eventually got on the radar of the International Surf Community. For a place with so much potential and such a unique culture to remain relatively untouched for as long as it has, is/was indeed special. Hiroaki, who ran the only surf shop in the south when I arrived, has been spearheading the movement to create awareness for the typhoon rich island. Mostly among theJapanese surf community.
Luckily for the surf community in Taiwan, scoring good sessions generally requires local knowledge and a bit of resourcefulness. If you haven’t seen the post yet on Surfline, you can check it here.
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Awoke before the crack of dawn to almost balmy weather for these parts. Grabbed my 6′5″ not knowing how much swell would have squeezed in and hoped for the best.
Needless to say, I was pleasantly greeted by spitting barrels. Its funny too, cause I was just talking about them and its not all the time that the tide and swell come together to create those types of waves. It wasn’t big…about 2-4ft but perfectly shaped. Within the first few minutes I saw probably five waves that spat…one right on me as I duck dove to get outside. The water was a little chilly and I was one of three guys out at 7am. I guess everyone slept in a little not knowing what to expect after a couple days of wind. (Read More and post a comment)
So my buddy Brian who used to work for Surf Aid sent me this invite. Looks to be a great event for a great cause. Was reminded when my ZunaSurf newsletter came via email today.
Here is the scoop.
“Surf Addict” and its crew, named after SF based Clothing & Accesories Manufacturer, along with other local partners/sponsors, will be the presenting sponsor of a launch party to benefit several sea life protection and environmental non-profit organizations.
Tomorrow night Friday, November 21st, 2008, 6:00pm-12:00pm - Aquarium At The Bay. Paddle Out on Saturday, November 22nd, 2008, 8:30am - Crissy Field
Earthquake
Island February
19, 2007 Taiwan surfing. Killer sessions with good friends
never forgotten. On tape, a reoccuring dream. Doesn’t take too
long on the ROC to feel the earthquake shake either. This island seems
to give so much, take its share. Stoked to be able to go back in time
to firing AK point with the late Kyle Z and Terry M, aka the Mayor.
Images for this movie pieced together
from old footage, as far back as the 9/21 Puli 1999 earthquake, up to
last year’s typhoon season. Featured music from Taiwan foreigner
bands: The Deadly Vibes, MILK, and garage band jam-out recorded with
Studio D. Check
it out!
安東尼
aka redneyrude
Justice
for Kyle Posted by Dawn Zielinski
Kyle was killed as most of you know, by a boy who was out with his friends.
A lot of information has been out there but not all of the information
has been correct. This is what I can tell you I hope it gives some closure
to some of the people who knew and loved Kyle.
Mr. Yu is a 20 year old boy
who was in college at the time of the accident, after he hit and killed
Kyle he fled and then later turned himself into the police. Since that
time Mr. Yu has taken full responsibility of his actions and has never
denied the fact that he was at fault. (Read
More and post a comment)
It’s on at Mavericks!! Posted January 10th, 2008 by Thelo Aiken The Maverick’s Surf Contest is on this Saturday January 12th after a much anticipated wait having missed the window last year with no significant storms to speak of. This year has had some really good warm up sessions from Mavericks and Ghost Tree to Cortes Bank and Todos. Great weather is forecasted. It will be broadcast live online as well as at AT&T ball park on the jumbo trons.
Taken from the MavSurfer site:
“We cannot stress it enough, don’t try to come watch the event. You won’t be able to see anything. If you can’t resist the urge to come out and you make it through traffic, respect the coastside residents and the surrounding areas. Maverick’s is located smack dab in the center of a very eco sensitive area. Use common sense, stay on the trails and pack out all your trash and if you see any on the ground pack that out as well. (Read
more)
NorCal
Lights Up Posted October 24th, 2007 by Thelo Aiken
NorCal and its lucky waveriders lit it up on the first swell of the
season.
It started out on Friday night talking
with my family about the plans for the weekend. We decided to take a
spur of the moment weekend trip down the coast. Didn’t really
have any plans but were excited for the forecasted warm weather and
solid swell hitting on Saturday.
Woke up Saturday morning way too early
and it was already shaping up to be a beautiful day. My son and I walked
out to Ocean Beach to check the waves and it was a pretty good size…no
one out and a lot of water moving. Not the best shape, but plenty of
good swell. We packed up the car with boards, suits, and other toys
and meandered our way south.
The waves at Pacifica weren’t
all that encouraging as it looked to be only slightly overhead on the
best portions, but you could see on the points and just south of OB
that there was some good swell running. A bit windy, but had a lot of
potential.
Driving past Montara and all
the other nooks and crannies before Half Moon Bay I had to struggle
to keep my eyes on the road. Montara was pretty large with no one out...(Read
more)
Monday
Morning "Quote"
